The Evo Build Thread - A second perspective
A build thread on the mighty Alees Evo, pretty self explanatory, but here is the twist - this will be done by Feral AND Simon.
We will both contribute to different parts of the build, with each taking a (reserved) section.
This should be fun. I cannot start my bits til after Christmas Day.
My partner took delivery of the box, stuck it under the tree and said I can't open until Christmas Day (got out of that lightly!)

Now my plan and what accessories will I be using
I'm going a straight 700 size until my first big smash,
Blades 716 rails and 106 rails on the tail
Motor: KDE 455kv stump grinder
Servos : BK 7001HVs and 7005HV
ESC : YEP 180
FBL : VBar Silverline Pro
14s - Fulfilling my destiny

Let the journey begin

 

Righto lets get into it.

Im not going to go into great detail with the unboxing but everything is packaged very well with all the main components haveing they're own box.
As you will see in Scott Gentry's (AleeS US team manager) video...

ALeeSUSA Rush 750 Evolution: What's in the box:

As you can see AleeS did a pretty good job on the packaging especially the massive canopy

 

Head and Swash
Well here goes.
I extracted bags 1 and 2 from the kit and three boxes that contained the swash, blade grips and head, opened my red and blue loctite and I was away.

A general look at the components show a two things, the quality is really high, and the parts are very beefy (I'll get to that in a minute).
The first decision you need to make is whether to put the grey or black dampeners in the head. The black are hard and are recommended for very hard men, really high head speeds or both. I opted for the grey, softer less crazy ones. Black dampeners at the top (put away for now)

The main shaft and the feathering shaft are huge, especially the feathering shaft. The main is a 12 mm hollow, while the feathering is a 10 mm solid.

I used tri flow oil to insert the feathering shaft and tri-flow red grease for my thrust bearings, those babies are packed. The big difference in the build compared with others I have built is the blade grips are secured by 13 mm nylock nuts, so you will need two drivers. Take you time adjusting each to get the shaft centered and measure the remaining thread (a feral tip).

Next was linkages, fully adjustable with the clockwise and counter clock wise threads, added balls to swash and loctited the series of bolts around the top of the swash.


Now on to the frame....
Simon

 

the transmission is a simple build but differs from the Rush Legacy in the way of gear material and construction (The Legacy being moulded gears and the Evo being delrin)

The Evo's counter and bevel gear are CNC delrin and is now a multiple part component



Here you can see the bevel gear and gear hub which gets glued together with CA





Now assemble the geras onto the counter shaft



The gears slide onto the shaft the little pins are inserted through the holes in the gears and shaft then the grub screw pins are locked into the ends of the shaft.
The trick is not to over tighten the grub screws resulting in bent pins which will make gear replacement very hard when you need to remove them.
Just firm them up and let the locktite do its job



Next asseble the boom mount and transmission block together with the gyro tray.

Thats it transmission is complete

 

On to the Airframe.

One of the things that stand out on the Evo is the satin finish of all the carbon parts.
It looks fantastic and it also aids in reducing glare when its airbourne.

One of the other things that stand out is the protrusions that stick out around the bolt holes on all the aluminum components
The step washers that bolt onto the outside of the frames also have these protrusions.
Once you bolt up the components these protrusions lock inside the carbon parts making the airframe extremely rigid.



Start by assembling the batteryesc and gyro tray noting the way the standoffs bolt on (step to the outside) then assemble the bearing blocks.



Now assemble the right frame







Bolt on the frame gusset and anti rotation bracket



Bolt the motor up with the supplied M4 bolts and check for clearence with the motor windings



Bolt in the motor, transmission, boom mounts and pinion support bearing.



Assemble the left frame which has the elevator and rudder servo mounts then bolt it up to the right frame and components leaving the mainshaft bearing blocks loose.



This slotted hole in the frame alows you to tilt your anti rotation bracket out of the way so you can remove the head swash and mainshaft as one unit



Mount the battery support to bottom of the frame



Now for the bit that I absolutely love about the Evo...

The factory carbon skids!





These aluminum studs lock into the frame and and secure the skid mounts



That concludes the airframe.

 

Servos - I'll mount them here
OK Stop your whinging fellas, here goes. Although I'd like to point out a couple of things. The first is I have changed my servos from what I originally wanted to put in. I have gone with JR HV SLS01 cyclic and JR HV SPG01 tail. These servos come with detachable leads. The reason I have done this is because I have no arms for the BK's and the build thread would falter. so I went with these.
The second thing I'd like to add is that I will not be covering wiring here, so it will be short (thank goodness)

For a start I decided to hard mount these servos, no rubber grommets or metal inserts, hard up against the mounts with a carbon top plate held down by 4 M3 hex bolts.

The aileron and pitch servo mount vertically with the output shaft of the servo to the top. These are mounted on the CNC bearing block of the main shaft. The elevator servo mounts lower than the pitch and aileron servos, and mounts horizontally, the output shaft is closest to the main shaft. I have those adjustable servo horns on these servos, which I'll fine tune when doing the setup on Friday, but, pay attention to the geometry. After putting these in, the geometry was all wrong when the swash was added and the balls had to come in 1 hole closer to the output shaft. I think it's about 17mm.

Below you can see the mounting of the elevator servo, without the auto rotation bracket in the way obscuring the goodness which is AleeS

The tail servo mounts on about a 45 degree angle, again hard mounted. The shot below is looking up the date of the helicopter (boom not added). Again the ball needs to be about 17 mm on this as well otherwise clerance with the boom may be an issue. I had to remove all servos and reset the balls.


That's about me done for now, as you can see in deep in the process of figuring out where to put the wires. I know @feral is doing the TDD next and I'll be looking at wiring after I get the tail done - check out the sections below!



Bye For Now, Simon

 

On to the innovative part

The AleeS Torque Dampen Drive can increase gear life by dampening the shock load on your gears caused by loading and unloading the tail.

The TDD is has a spindle shaft and dampeners like you have in the rotor head but in the gear system.

The one thing I noticed after flying the Evo is how quiet it is I cant hear any gear chatter and I think this is due to the TDD.

Start by assembling the main gear and one way bearing lubing it with triflow







Here are all the TDD components they consist of...

TDD hub
Dampeners
Spindle shaft
Dampener collars
And the auto gear




Assemble the Auto gear onto the hub insert the dampeners and collars.







Stack the main and auto gear /TDD making sure the spindle hole is lined up through both gear sets.

Slide the gears into the frame then insert the mainshaft.

Line the spindle hole up on the mainshaft and slide the spindle shaft through locking it in with the m2 bolts and washers.





The last step in the gears is to lock the whole assembly up and remove all slop from the main shaft.

To do this you line the auto and transmission gears up by moving the bottom bearing block up and down in its slotted holes.

Once you have them lined up lock up the bearing block's 4 mount bolts.

The AleeS jesus bolt is not your conventional M3 bolt and nut.

Its a M8 alloy bolt that is threaded into the mainshaft vertically in the bottom end and it is used to remove all the slop out of the mainshaft.

Apply blue locktite and tighten it up firmly

 

Reserved Tail build
Well the tail is done and here it is
Well the tail had few parts and went together like a breeze. Upon opening the bag I found this

Of course the tail shaft and bearings were pulled apart and packed with tri-flow grease.
The only difference I did from the manual was sanded the inside of the brass bush on the slider. This was done by rolling up some 800 wet and dry, lubricating with tri-flow and sanding for about 10 minutes. This gave the whole tail assembly a smoothness normally reserved for a gravy sandwich. I got this link form @feral which is posted below the image. I would watch this if you like you tail smoooooth....


And the link from Alees Tech Tips (a big thank you for this) - lots of great tips in this...

Assembled, Lock righted and ready to go

Bye for now, wiring next....Will post tomorrow
Simon

 

OK
The wirings done.
The wiring starts nearly at the beginning of building a kit. Yes, the frames should be sanded, if you don't you will (most probably) cut your servo wires - I know this for a fact!
After the frames and carbon plates have been sanded, build the beast. Next comes laying out your electronics and deciding where things are going in the frame. The servos are a given, but careful thought about where to put the FBL / Reciever, battery ESC and maybe a switch all come to play. Now there were two suggested component layouts in the Rush Evo manual, I chose neither, The main reason you have to get your layout organised now, is you need to know which servo leads / others you may need to extend.
Once you know what leads can be extended and what don't, it's time to put some braid on them, fastened at each end with some heat shrink. I use the Jaycar braid (3mm) and 5mm heat shrink.
In my build, I chose to place the VBAR base unit on the transmission tray, and the sensor where gyro is recommended. The ESC lives where it can probably only be mounted and the RX pack in front of the sensor. Given this layout, I kept all servo wires behind the mainshaft and did not have to extend any servo leads. The RX power to the VBAR was done by soldering up 2 servo leads to a double length of 14 g wire and protecting that in 6mm Jaycar braid, (this was a long extension from one end of the heli to the other). The other extension was the throttle lead from the ESC. I used a 200 mm servo extension lead. Both were braided (ESC and extension). Where the leads were joined, I put some heat shrink around that to stop disconnection in flight.
Here are the wires ready for routing. I haven't done the ESC yet, but have heat shrinked the extension on. Notice the servo leads plug into my servos, that's why they are not hanging on the end of the leads...

Given my decision to have nearly everything behind the main shaft, I only had to route the VBAR sensor (A) and the throttle (B). For the sensor, I ran the wire over the base of the upper motor mount, and the throttle below the lower mount. This frame is the best and allows for virtually anyone to be neat with so many tie points and routing options. As a note, I like to wrap my braided wires in double sided velcro - just to protect a little more.

The servo wires were a cinch, lots of options for tying the suckers down. The thing I like to do is leave 30 mm (about) of normal wire between the servo and the braid, and the plug and the braid. This allows for wires to bend easily. Check out the elevator and aileron servo wire routing below

The Vbar unit, I put this on the transmission plate. I velcroed this on, so I can easily remove it when I strip my tail mushroom gears due to having the motor that is crazy powerful!

Lastly, all wires that are plugged into the FBL were hot glued in (yes - I've had those come out mid-flight and it blows). As a note I have mounted the sats with velcro, this is temporary and will be mounted with the red 3M tape before the maiden
Cheers all - have any questions, just ask
Simon

 

The cherry on the cake

The Evo canopy is a work of art its very big and very bright there isnt much to build its just a matter of installing the grommets.

I opted for quick release mounts for the rear as I prefer them over the standard washer and bolt.

The factory setup is pretty secure its just a personal preference of mine that I use quickys (I have chopped many canopies on other brands)


The canopy behind is off my 800 just for size reference

She's huge






All mounted up







Note the vents in the top theses are directly above the ESC and significantly aids in cooling





One thing ive noticed is the speed in forwards and backwards flight has improved its alot faster than my Rush Legacy probably due to the Evo canopy being bullet shaped and a wrap around design.

That concludes the build

 

Hi guys sorry for the delayed flight report I have switched over to Graupner for my TX and the weather up here has delayed me getting some video for you.

My first impression on the Evo is damn it is quick of centre and very precise.

Ive found I needed to wind back the mid stick agility on the vortex just a tad as it was a bit quick for me at first.
Now that ive had a few more flights I have put it back up the where it was and am loving the crisp feel and agility you get with a quicker cyclic setup.




The other noticeable difference it the weight.

Charley managed to shave nearly half a kilo off the weight compared to the Rush Legacy.

This weight saving gives you a lighter disc increasing pop, hangtime and agility.




The geometry of the swash, head and tail allowed me to get numbers in the Spartan Vortex setup that ive never seen on any machine before.
All I had to do in the setup was click through the menu's and adjust the tail pushrod 2 turns from factory recommendation it literally took me 7mins to completely set the Evo up

Overall I am very happy with the Evo and I will be getting another to run as a 750 and replace my Trex 800.




Here's a link to a tune flight from today she still needs a little tweak but she is flying fantastic.
( not the best quality the heat haze was playing havoc with the focus)


AleeS Rush 750 Evo:

And here's some pics.

















Thankyou all for looking and if your in the market for a high quality machine please check out www.yourhobby.com.au or PM @Jeff B

 

And yet another flight report
Simon
Mine maybe a while, holidays have stopped and the demands of work are back apon me...
Rest assured good heli folk, I'll post as soon as I'm able

 

The reason build sections have been reserved is so we can get some continuity in the build thread, hope this is cool, enjoy
Comments always welcome.
Simon

 

Looking forward to having a fleet of Evo's to show off at the feild... Team Alees Australia, in full force!!!!

 

Theres 2 at my club @Christo is into his build

 

@simon have you worked out the Evo head and swash yet???

 

Next week


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Head and swash done

 

Transmission section complete