Great, thanks for your help!


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My friend bought this heli and sadly from the beginnig had problems with it. He is good and experienced pilot. He has T-Rex 150 DFC , T-Rex 250 SC , MiniProtos 3S , T-Rex 500 PRO DFC SC ,
Logo 600 6S , Agile 7.2 , Goblin 700 , Assault 800 , so he know a lot about heli assemble . One image is worth more then 1000 words, so this is his maiden flight

After this accident he approve the ease of broken parts disassembly. He said that this is much easier than in t-rex 450.
Unfortunately there is few things he is not pleased:
1. Ball links are loose, so the heli is not precise (during for example landing), but in more like smack type flying it dont bother that much
2. The aluminiom is worse then that used in agile 7.2 (he also has that model)
3. Correct adjustment of belt on main gear is time absorbing and require few reassembles
4. Stock esc's gov is not good,
5. Reproducibility of parts is not good. New tail shaft have too deep pit (hope I use good word) for tail hub screw so the hub may get loose during flight
6. Original swashplate had runaut, and another one during uscrewing balls brake off thread.
7. Dont even know how too properly name this failure. Element on photo rub off in bearing, causing play that damaged belt


8. Fighting with tail shakes, made my friend exhange all drive and tail elements with no effect, and during dynamic tail blades balancing, shakes where that big that new lynx tail blades explode.

The design of heli is good and when it fly it fly great, but sadly it looks like kds did not use top quality materials to build it.

 

Maiden went well today with no major issues. Like others I've found the tail gain has to be quite low, mine's at 35 and it holds well. I think I found the resonance others were talking about and it occurred at 2500 rpm so I'll have a play around there to see how it goes.
2200 rpm and 14 degrees of pitch is a bit of fun too. It's very quiet and smooth too. The VBar governor is working OK, but needs some more tuning to iron out the small tail kicks on punchouts.
Here's what it turned out like.

 

What tails are you using @mr_squiggle , after seeing the above video, I'm definitely not using the included ones
Simon

 

The Align plastic ones designed for the 450L Dominator. At 65mm they're probably too big given how much I've had to drop the tail gain. I'll be experimenting with some 60mm Edge ones to see how they go. Nothing wrong with the Align ones though, they hold well.


Citizen #186

 

Thanks for that mate, I'll go CF if I can, and at a high HS, 65 might be a touch on the large size, but you will know more about it than me, I have yet to build mine!
Simon

 

The ones that come with the kit are 65mm, but the mechanical tail gain is massive so I reckon the 60mm ones from a regular 450 would probably be fine.


Citizen #186

 

Thanks mate, a true and valued member of TNC
Simon

 

So guys, forgive me for asking but what is the response from KDS and @Glen?....

 

Some new tail blades will be sent out as soon as the new ones are made according to an email from Hunter at Acme Hobbies.
I haven't asked KDS or Glen about the tail blade size yet, although I've got a "build issues list" that I have compiled for sending to Acme for feedback.


Citizen #186

 

How long is that list...?@mr_squiggle..... Would it include a swash plate that has runout..

 

It's not a long list, mine went together pretty well. It's stuff like the recommended servo arm length for tail, some suggestions on fit & machining for some parts and suggestions on the manual.
My swashplate is ok & has no runout.


Citizen #186

 

Hi Johnny. Seems you mentioned Benji. Good to see his friend on Heligods. Do you live in Poland?

 

Almost any tail blades work well,
I have even used protos 500 blades (moded to fit the grip in an early prototype)
I have some RJX 68mm blades on the way, many are using those with good results.
other than the risk of explosion and heli destruction from the stock blades they fly quite well too. Marco was happy with them. so no way im going to find a fault if he cant.
Once KDS get the plastics right they will be a perfectly good option too. I have been running X3 blades as thats all i had, they were good. But due to smashing them 2 days ago i am now running some cheapo 59mm flexy plastic blades that i had laying around, and they are not quite up to the job. ..... Edit: even these 58/59mm felxy plastics were OK, I just stuffex up my collective settings with no setup equipment while away, I had WAY to much pitch.

 

I'm using radix 59's on my tail and I'm happy with the tail so far!

I too had a little run-out on my swash but live with it so far.

 

So I've stalled my build while I go and work out how to get the motor screws to sit flush into the mounting block, so that the pinion doesn't sit too high. It seems like others have been opening up the channels in the block so that the screw heads sit lower and some have been filing down the bottom of the motor pinion to avoid them?

I've also noticed some binding on my tail pitch slider when it's driven by the control arm. i.e. the pitch slider on the tail shaft runs nice and smooth by itself, and the lever/control arm runs smooth too - but when using the control arm to drive the pitch slider by hand it feels quite a bit tighter as it moves towards the tail case. Did anyone else notice this?

Thanks
Tom

 

Check that the tail control arm is at 90 degrees to the tail shaft. Loosen the top and/or bottom screws and re tighten to get it square. If you remove the pin screws from the slider arm it's easier to see.
The manual makes mention of getting it right, but not really how.
Also check that the ball links to the tail grips are correctly sized. One of mine was ok, but the other needed sizing.


Citizen #186

 

Double post. Woops....

 

@Toml - I put my pinion on a lathe and trimmed it down a bit..

 

Ah, great! Thanks for the tip.

The support arm looked parallel to the tail shaft to my bare eyes, but must not have been. I loosened the support arm, straightened it and tightened it back up and it felt much better. I also gave the ball links a bit of a working in the ball by hand and now it's all nice and smooth.